Mohammed, Mohammed & Mohammed

Cairo was outstanding. I wasn’t sure how I was going to like it because I honestly have never heard a Jordanian say a single good thing about it, “It’s crowded, it’s dirty, they try to rip you off, don’t bother.” But I had the greatest time ever. I was visiting my friend from high school, Veasey, who I haven’t seen over a year, maybe two. He is studying abroad in Cairo and lives in an apartment on an island in the Nile! It is as un-island like as possible but it was still cool to look out the window in the morning and be like “oh hey, that’s the Nile.” The whole time I was there I continually had Mark Twain running through my head, “Da Nile ain’t just a river in Egypt.”

Veasey and his friend Toon picked me up from the airport and we chilled for the afternoon before going out for Toon’s birthday that night. They actually got a flat tire on the way to pick me up so I felt super bad but am eternally grateful I didn’t have to try and get to where Veasey lives on my own. We had tons of fun in downtown Cairo that night : )

The next day was one of the best days I have had so far in the Middle East. Veasey and I were heading to the pyramids. We took the subway, which was soooo clean and nice!!! We then took a taxi-van-bus sort of thing to get from the subway stop to the pyramids. This is where things get interesting. First of all, there are no doors on the van so I was holding on for dear life since I was closest to the opening of all the people squeezed in.

Then two guys were talking to us, Mohammed and Mohammed. It turned out they were going to the pyramids as well (actually were not really sure if that is what they were planning on doing before our encounter…). At first Veasey and I were weary due to Egyptian reputation of doing anything to get money out of tourists. We got to the gate though and they bought us tickets because Egyptian tickets are basically free compared to the tourist’s price. It didn’t end up working out because of the security but we were grateful they tried. They spent the day with us at the pyramids, teaching us some Arabic and showing us around. Due to our original skepticism I had told them that Veasey and I were married and as a result I now have several pictures they took of us together with our hands making heart shapes and other interesting poses.

Afterwards Mohammed and Mohammed invited us to their houses to meet their families. We took a took-took, the motorized three wheel things that are popular in India, and then walked through a maze of dirt street allies to get to Mohammed’s house. It looked like slums but we think it was middle class housing. The little kids in the “street” were intrigued with me and Veasey and a little scared it seemed. I think they warmed us to us though after Veasey played some soccer with them and I spoke a little Arabic with them.

Mohammed’s mom then cooked us a fish dish that I am sure was great, but you all know my feelings on fish. Turns out Veasey doesn’t like seafood either but we obviously weren’t going to say no. It was funny because neither of us knew the other didn’t like it until Veasey got the hint when Mohammed insisted on putting more on my plate and I was more than just politely refusing (not that it worked…nor did I expect it to but a girls gotta try).

After eating, we walked around some more and out of nowhere there was a pool table! We played a few games (America vs. Egypt, of course) and then headed to an internet café to add each other on facebook. Veasey and I were super tired by this point and Mohammed helped us get on a bus back to the metro. These guys were super nice and I felt like I got to see the non-touristy side of Egypt and got to meet some real people. It was also really nice because whenever guys would hassle me or other guys would be hassling us to ride camels Mohammed and Mohammed took care of it. I think Veasey and them are going to the zoo next week. I couldn’t have asked for a better day.

Today I made another friend named Mohammed. My Expedia itinerary said my flight to Tunisia was departing from terminal two. Well it turns out terminal two does not exist. My taxi drove up and it looked like it was under construction but it had been halted five years ago. I then got dropped off at a different terminal, which wasn’t the right one. And then walked to a different terminal, which wasn’t the right one. And then got on a shuttle bus to the proper terminal. I turned to the man next to me and asked him if this is where I got off for terminal three. At this point my flight was leaving in an hour and I hadn’t even checked in yet. He was a tour guide in Egypt and I told him how I was worried about catching my flight and he totally took me under his wing. At first I was a little nervous, I just thought he was coming on to me when he was offering to help but I figured things were done in the Arab world through connections and i really didn't think I was going to make my flight. I was already mentally planning on how I was going to get back to Veasey's, trying to describe directions to the taxi. Since Mohammed had tour guide credentials he could do some special thing where he registered being my helper with the tourist police (quickly) so he could go with me to areas where normally only ticketed passengers could go. He had me running off of the bus and through the terminal. And then he said "ok give me your passport, I need it to check in with the airport security so they will let us both through, with me as your escort." I hesitated. I thought, ok he had me moving really fast, to make me feel urgency, like I have no other choice so that when he asks for my passport I will just instantly hand it over. I think he could see that I was really nervous to hand over my passport but I then thought, I have had such amazing encounters in Egypt. I am going to trust this guy (and also watch him like a hawk while he talks to the police). He came back 30 seconds later, handed me my passport and we were off. He then rushed me through the airport, skipped all of the lines, and I got to my gate before the plane even started boarding. I wouldn’t have made it without him. I know people prey on this sense of trust but I would have had a completely different, more boring, and perhaps even longer stay in Egypt (if i didn't make my plane) if I hadn't. A little trust goes a long way, and I guess I am learning I would rather make some mistakes along the way then spend my whole life sheltered within myself.

So three Mohammed’s later, I had an amazing time in Egypt. Seeing Veasey was the best thing ever. I have said it before and I will say it again, people from Cambridge are the best. Looking forward to my time in Tunisia, already had a great night just hanging out with my friend Amine from Korea : )